Day 16

It rained overnight and a cold front had moved in.   It was overcast and cool.  There was a lot of road construction on the route, but fresh pavement and a wider road was to my advantage.   It was hilly all day and I got into a choppy climb and coast routine.  I was constantly shifting gears.  I am accustomed to riding in the flat with a rhythmic pedaling cadence and let the miles fly by.   Today I had to fight for every mile.   I made it to Wiscasset, a distance of 76 miles.   I am now 125 miles from Bar Harbor.    

                                   Maine scenery

Day 15

North Woodstock had changed considerably overnight.  When I arrived late yesterday, it was crowded with tourists and the drone of Harleys was almost too much.   This morning the bikers were gone and it was quiet and I saw kayakers and hikers getting ready to head out for adventure. 

I powered down an omelet at the town restaurant and headed out to the Kancamagus Hwy, which goes through the White Mountain National Forest.    The scenery surpassed any I had seen on this tour.   The fall colors were magnificent and the mountains were majestic.   There were some very hard climbs that slowed my pace until I hit the summit at 2855 feet, when I started a long descent - a 7% grade that lasted over 4 miles.   This was going to be my final mountain descent of the tour.  The pavement was in pretty good condition and the traffic was moderate.   I have had a lot of practice at these descents over the past week.  I was ready.   I soared down the mountain road governing my speed only when necessary by braking at short intervals.  It was a thrill I will never forget and it gave my burning legs a needed rest.

I got into Maine around at 1:00PM.   Traffic was heavy due to the annual Fryeburg Fair.  To complicate matters, SR5 heading north was in bad condition and I had to grind it out for about 15 miles. After that the route was good I made it to Bridgton for a total of 72 miles for the day.   I am still approximately 200 miles from Bar Harbor – another 2.5 days.

                        

                                Into the wild:   Heading for the Kancamagus pass.

                   
                                 Riding the switchbacks.
                              

                                
                                     Scenic turnoff 
                                 

                              At the top after a hard climb. 

 

 

Made it to Maine

Day 14

After a super breakfast at the B&B, I hit the road.  My hosts were experienced bicycle tourists and suggested an alternate route that would avoid some steep climbs.   I made great time and entered New Hampshire at 10:30 AM.   I was disappointed that there was no Welcome to sign.  The morning was peaceful riding a dirt road for several miles in the NH countryside.   It was again foggy and finally lifted around 11:00 AM and got into the low 80s.    The afternoon route was mountainous and crossed the Appalachian Trail near North Woodstock, where I ended today’s 75 mile journey.    I coasted for 5 miles down a long grade into town, which was a great way to end the day’s ride.  I should be in Maine tomorrow afternoon.

This was a great breakfast at the B&B with a Vermont Cheddar cheese omelet, home made applesauce, Greek yogurt, raspberries, granola, and hard boiled eggs.  Unfortunately I couldn't finish all of it, but I took two hard boiled eggs for the road.

       
                                 Covered bridge in New Hampshire

                           
                                The NH Countryside

                               North Woodstock -  a town with a brewery and too many Harleys!
                           

Day 13

There was a thick fog this morning but I made it down to the ferry in Ticonderoga at 7:15 AM.  The ferry boat operator was  already there and invited me to board.  I was expecting we would wait for some cars to arrive, but he started the engine up right away and we started across Lake Champlain, just my bike and I!   As we landed, I stepped off the ferry into foggy Vermont.  Fortunately there was no traffic for at least 45 minutes and by that time, the fog had lifted revealing beautiful Vermont.  Initially it was rolling and agricultural, but soon the big climbs started.   The countryside was beautiful on this warm sunny day, but with autumn foliage at its peak and it being Saturday, there was a fair amount of traffic.   There weren’t many lodging options but I finally found a bed & breakfast in Sharon, Vermont.   I rode a distance of 77 miles today.   

                                  Ferrying in the fog across Lake Champlain.

                        
                                      Landing in foggy Vermont

                                       Beautiful Vermont.

This 12%  descent was treacherous.  Unlike the one I experienced  in NY (perfect pavement, straight, wide shoulder, low traffic)  This  was on a narrow  winding mountain road with  no shoulder, bad pavement, and lots of traffic.   I could not hold my line  and frequently had to veer left and take the whole lane.     The driver of the car directly behind me could see that I needed some space to avoid bumps and  did not attempt to pass.  This prevented anyone from passing me which would have been a dangerous situation.   At the bottom of the grade I waved in appreciation.  

Day 12

It was cold and a bit foggy when I left Blue Mountain Lake early this morning but it burned off quickly as temperatures would reach the upper 70s by afternoon.  The fall colors were brilliant…someone said they are now at 75% of peak.   After climbing around Blue Mountain, I made it to Long Lake.  The stretch from Long Lake to Newcomb was amazingly picturesque and with perfect road conditions.  I reached for my camera often as each turn in the road presented a new photo-op.   There were several long high speed downhill descents today which was a nice payback for all the climbing.    I made it to Ticonderoga and decided to enter Vermont in the morning.   It had been a 75 mile day, and a fairly high mileage week.

                   
              The weather, road, and scenery were absolutely perfect and picturesque.

                                      
                               At every turn the views were spectacular.                             

These signs were fairly common today.  Of course, I put the bike in high gear instead.  This particular descent was on Blue Ridge Road, east of Newcomb, and was over 2 miles long.   My maximum speed per the bike computer was 38 MPH and  the lines on the road just looked like dots.   It was intense, exhilarating, and a bit scary!

Day 11

This morning I got up at 5:00 AM and was on the road at 5:45am.   I hooked up my headlight and headed off into the darkness.  There was no traffic at that early hour and I got through a 15 mile section of road that had no shoulder.  When I got to West Leyden, I stopped at a general store/gas station to have some coffee and with for the sun to rise further so I wouldn’t be lost in the glare that motorists faced heading east.  It was another hilly day, but not as bad as yesterday.   The fall colors were more intense, and the scenery was superb.   It was also a bit cooler and partly cloudy.   

I stopped at a bike shop in Inlet, NY to have the mechanic look at my back wheel.   He really liked my vintage bike (1985 Trek 720) and not only did he true the wheel, he adjusted the brakes and cleaned the chain.   For all that, he charged me only $9.

The Verizon signal is spotty in the Adirondacks, and I have been without service off and on for the past 2 days.   I had to scramble to find a room when I arrived in Blue Mountain Lake.   After making a few inquiries, I found a nice cabin for a reasonable price.  

I am now about 65 miles from Vermont and should arrive there tomorrow afternoon.

v                                Waiting for the sun in West :Leyden

                                  The rushing Moose River near Boonville

I rode 50 miles this morning on a muffin, a banana, and two granola bars.  I was famished by the time I found this restaurant in Old Forge.  I ordered a veggie omelet, potatoes, and toast, and when it came it was so much food, I didn't think I could eat it all, but I did and it was so good!

Day 10

Last night in Wolcott I met two other bicycle tourists  who were staying at the hotel.  Both were Canadians; one was circumnavigating Lake Ontario, and the other was returning to Toronto after a  loop in the states.   We discussed our travels and  hockey (of course!).    I had hoped to see them this morning, but by the time  I got downstairs at 6:00 AM they had already hit the road.

After leaving the hotel, I got some gas station coffee and a pastry, and headed out.   I hadn’t even warmed up and I was already into my first climb.   I quickly realized that I was riding into a major topography change as I headed into the Adirondacks.   That was the first of many climbs that went on all day.  It was a beautiful morning that I was thankful for, but I toiled hard on the bike all day, climb after climb.   My thighs were burning!

I finally made it to Osceola and arrived at the (world famous) Osceola Hotel, where I had hoped to get a room.   It is no longer a functioning hotel, just a bar.  There were still rooms upstairs, the owner said, which are used mostly for storage.   He said there was a room that I could stay in, said it was nothing special, and insisted it would be for free.  It was another  cyclists stay for free situation.  It was perfectly fine, especially after a long day on the bike.    I met two other cyclists who were staying there as well.   For the day I rode 78 grueling miles

                        It doesn't look that hilly, but I took this photo at the top after a steep climb!

The hills and the sunny temperatures made for a very warm day.  Here I am peeling off  my jacket and leg-warmers.

I hadn't planned on stopping here for the night, but it was late in the day and I was ready to get off the bike.   The owner  offers cyclists rooms (if available) at no charge. 

Day 9

As I left Brockport, I got back on the Canalway Trail and met another cycle tourist.   Julia was touring from Cleveland to Boston, then NYC.   She recently graduated from the University of Arizona and has accepted a 2 year Peace Corp position in Indonesia teaching English.   It was nice to meet another touring cyclist and it made the miles go by quickly.   We rode 50 miles together until I got off the Canalway Trail at Palmyra and headed north toward Lake Erie, while she rode on toward Albany.

After yesterday’s problem with my rear wheel, I decided to ship some gear back home.   It lightened my load by 15 pounds.    The timing could not have been better, because as I headed north, it became hilly immediately and I found myself using the granny gear often.  It would have been very difficult had I not reduced the weight of the bike.

I ended the day in Wolcott and rode a distance of 89 miles.

 

                   Julia - heading to Boston & NYC, then to the Peace Corp

                  
                  A beautiful morning on the Canalway Trail

                
    It was constant hills in the afternoon.  I  climbed  at 5 mph and descended at 30!

 

  I stayed at Wolcott's finest hotel.  The room was $39!  Not much more than camping!              

 

Day 8

I got an early start on this cold morning, but after riding about 4 miles, I noticed my rear tire was low on air.  I stopped to pump it up, but it would not inflate.   I thought it might be the tube, but it was an overstrained pump.  After several attempts, I had lost more air to the point where it was too low to ride.  Now I was stuck!    I phoned a bike shop, but what were the chances that one would be open so early?  They typically open at 10 or 11 AM and it was only 8. The first shop was not open.     I called a second bike shop, and much to my surprise they answered!   I explained my predicament and the shop owner said he would deliver a new pump to me.   He arrived in 20 minutes, inflated my tires to the proper pressure, and brought the new pump.   He was only going to charge me for the pump, but I added a gratuity for the service call.   I continued on my way thinking that I had just experienced another remarkable act of kindness.

I took Route 31 out of Niagara Falls, which has a nice wide shoulder.  Even though there was a fair amount of traffic, I had  a good buffer.  When I got to Lockport,  I got on the Erie Canalway Bike Path and rode it to Brockport.   The surface is unpaved with hard-packed crushed stone.   It was easy to ride on, but not as fast as pavement.  To compensate, I had a strong tailwind all day.   I finished the day in Brockport for a total of 67 miles.

First mechanical problems: A broken pump and loose spokes.  The added weight on the tire from the panniers put too much stress on the pump.   The loose spokes were also caused by the extra weight. 

                                        
          I rode on this wide shoulder for 20 miles this morning.  

            The Erie Canalway bike trail.  Despite the tailwind, I only averaged  12    
             mph due to the unpaved surface.

 

Brockport

Day 7 - Sunday, 9/21//14

Today’s route looped through Canada at Buffalo and returned to the USA at Lewiston.   I rode through some rain this morning, but it cleared up before noon.   It was a very windy day and the route had lots of twists and turns, so I caught a fair amount of headwind throughout the day.   I crossed the Peace Bridge in Buffalo, rode to Niagara Falls, and came back over the Lewiston – Queenston Bridge.  I ended the day in Niagara Falls, USA for a total of 91 miles.  A long day on the bike, but now I am an international cyclist. :)

                                         Whitecaps on Lake Erie.  The wind was fierce today.

                                         Crossing the Peace Bridge in Buffalo

                                       
                                         At Niagara Falls

6 Days on the Road

The winds were still pretty strong when I woke up.  I couldn’t really get a directional read on it until I got back to the highway.  Much to my delight, it was a strong tailwind coming out of the SW.   It pushed me all day long.   It was a perfect day for touring with temperatures in the mid-upper 70s.  The roads in Pennsylvania and NY were in very good condition with a 4’ shoulder all the way.    There was the sweet smell of grapes as I passed numerous vineyards and wineries.   Views of Lake Erie were always on my left.   With the wind at my back I rode 88 miles to Irving, NY.  

 

                                   One of the many vineyards I passed today.

                                   
                                      Made it to NY!

 

     
                                      Lake Erie bluffs

 

Day 5

Great weather again today. It warmed up quickly into the mid-upper 60s and partly sunny with moderate headwinds most of the day.     I rode 78 miles from Eastlake, OH  to  Lake City, PA, where I found a nice campground  overlooking  Lake Erie.  It was a warm night for camping and as I settled in for the night, I could hear the wind kicking up, and several trains going by in the distance.  Eventually I got to sleep.

 

I stopped for lunch in this resort town.  It was mostly boarded up for the winter.  At the diner, they told me that If I had been here 2 weeks ago, I never would have made it through town there were so many people.   The road was closed just outside of town, and I feared a long detour, but I  rode through it anyway with the road crew hardly noticing.

Ashtabula -  I'll look for you in old Honolulu, San Francisco, Ashtabula... - Bob Dylan 
                                                                                   -
 I don't know why Bob used Ashtabula in the same  lyric with those major cities, but this town has seen better days.   I do like the name, and apparently Dylan did too.

                                         The day's big moment. 

                                         My campsite on Lake Erie.

Day 4, 9/18/14

Today I rode 67 miles from Vermilion to Eastlake.   The route covered the whole spectrum of road conditions.   The morning was great with a smooth surface and a bike lane, but as the day progressed it degenerated to no shoulder and lots of pot holes.  There were long stretches of bad road that slowed me to a crawl (8 mph) and few times I actually had to ride on the sidewalk, which really wasn’t much better.    Getting through Cleveland was much easier than I had anticipated.   Other than some road construction issues, I breezed through easily.   I saw lots of other bikers who rode assertively in traffic.   I concluded that Cleveland is bike friendly.    Motorists gave me lots of space all day.  

Tomorrow I will be through Ohio and on to Pennsylvania and New York.  

 

                    This morning:  All roads in the USA should have a bike lane!

                    Getting ready to cross the Detroit Superior Bridge into downtown Cleveland.

                                                     View from the cockpit.

Day 3, 9/17/14

Now I remember why I haven’t camped in so many years.  As comedian Jim Gaffigan says, the happy camper is the one that is leaving the campground.   I was a happy camper as I left the Wooded Acres Campground!   Even though I didn’t get much sleep, I rode 60 miles to Vermillion Ohio,  a quaint little town on Lake Erie.   I stopped there to assess my limited overnight options, and as I was perusing the map, a group of ladies stopped and asked me about my bike tour.   One of them owned cottages on Lake Erie and she told me bicycle tourists stay there for free.    Her husband told me that in her younger days, she toured over 1,000 miles across Canada and that she still feels an affinity with touring cyclists    The timing of her act of kindness could not have been better, because after last night, I sure did not want to spend another night camping.     It was great place to stay on the lake and have the sound of the waves lull me to sleep.

As for today’s ride, it was again rural county roads with little traffic.  When I got to Huron, Ohio, I got on route 6 which hugs Lake Erie.  Although the traffic was moderate, there was a 5’ shoulder with 1 foot being a rumble strip.   Perfect! It was like having my own bike lane.

                                          I rode on rural county roads like this for most of the day.

                                          My cozy cabin on Lake Erie

                                           View of the lake from the cabin

The next leg of the tour will take me through Cleveland.

Day 2, 9/16,2014

Today I rode 82 miles from Adrian, MI to Lindsey, OH.  For most of the day I owned the road.  From Adrian to Sylvania It was all farm country with very little traffic.  It was quiet and relaxing.  At Sylvania,  I rode on the University bike trail for about 7 miles which took me to the University of Toledo.    Riding through Toledo was a sharp contrast to my peaceful morning.  Motorists were not giving me much space and there were a few honks.   There was lots of of glass and debris on the road which made me worry about flats, but my Ruffy Tuffy tires lived up to their name.   After  I finally got through the city, it was back to the rural backroads for the rest of the afternoon.   I ended the day on another bike trail – The Northcoast Inland Trail.  Lindsey was like a ghost town with no restaurants.  I found a convenience store that made very good tacos, got a carry out and went back to the trail.

The weather today was good.  It was cool and overcast for most of the morning, then it turned into a beautiful sunny day with light winds.  The mid-sixties temperatures were perfect for riding.   I ended the day  at a campground right next to the trail.   It has been over 20 years since I have  camped...it should be an interesting night.

I was not feeling the love in Toledo.

 

Dinner Break on the George Busch Bench